- Solo
- November 2022
- Lisbon + a day trip to Porto, Obidos, and Nazare
- Culture, custard tarts, hills, and tiles!
Doesn’t it seem like everyone vacationed in Portugal in the last couple of years? Well, it’s with good reason! Portugal is a great place to spend a few days or a week. It’s a relatively close flight from the East Coast and has balmier weather in the off season than other parts of Europe.
I loved my time in Portugal and could have stayed much longer. Here’s my itinerary with recommendations and mini reviews. Saude!
Flight: I used my United miles to fly from Dulles to Lisbon via Newark. I’m pretty sure I only had to connect because I was traveling in the off season.
Upon arriving to Lisbon at 8 am, I took a taxi instead of public transportation because my hotel was located in a historic neighborhood and in order to preserve the area and its inhabitants, car access is limited to residents and authorized vehicles like official taxis. I also checked my luggage and didn’t want to deal with public transportation and walking up steep hills after a red-eye in drizzle. Sometimes you have to shell out for convenience!
Hotel: I stayed at Casa do Bairro by Shiadu. It’s a lovely boutique hotel in the Bairro district, walkable to just about anything. One of the big selling points for me is that they offer a full breakfast every morning in a charming dining room. The breakfast buffet options change every day but always include an array of pastries, meats, cheeses, etc. and you can also order any egg dish you like and a fresh espresso drink. My room was spacious and filled with really cool art. I received a complimentary small bottle of red wine upon arrival and some chocolates that didn’t last long. The cost for six nights was 675 euros and I thought it was well worth the money.
Day 1: Castles, custard tarts, Carmo Convent
I left my luggage at the hotel because it was too early to check in and ventured out to explore. It was overcast and the streets were wet but it wasn’t actually raining. About my third step into the street, I slipped and fell on a steep hill and scraped the crap out of my knee. That was the only time I fell on the entire trip, but it definitely reminded me to watch my step on the many steep and slippery inclines of Lisbon!
Tip: When walking up or down steep hills, walk in the street instead of the sidewalk. The sidewalks are far more slippery because they are made of a different kind of stone. I noticed most locals walking in the street very close to the sidewalk. This is especially easy to do in the historic neighborhoods where regular cars aren’t allowed.
One of the best things to do in Lisbon is to get a Lisboa card. This gives you admission to all kinds of attractions, as well as free tram and bus rides. You can get a card for different periods of time, but I recommend getting the 72 hour card (for 44 euro) which is the best value and the longest period of time. You can purchase the card in advance of your trip and then exchange your email voucher in person at the airport or at various places in the city. I forgot to do this at the airport but thankfully there was an exchange office right by La Praca de Comercio so it was on my way. The card is activated on the first use, so there’s no need to worry about the card expiring before you arrive in Lisbon.
I decided to start my day at the Sao Jorge Castle as it is one of the few attractions that does not take the Lisboa Card. I’d visit the castle and then activate the card afterwards: why waste precious hours of Lisboa Card time? The Sao Jorge (St. George) Castle is from the 11th Century and has incredible views of the city and the water. It costs 5 euro to enter. Oh, and did I mention there’s a flock of peacocks who hang out on the castle grounds?
The walk to the castle from the Bairro district is very scenic and allowed me to stop for my first pastel de nata of the trip. I went to Manteigaria and had a fresh, hot, quivering pastel de nata and a delightful cappuccino. Manteigaria has a few locations around Lisbon and is known for being one of the best. You can see the bakers making the little pastries right in front of you! I’m glad I went early in the morning because later on in the day there was a line down the block.
On my way to the castle, I stopped into Conserveira de Lisboa, a famous sardine shop that has been in business since the 1930s. Sardines and other tinned seafood are a very well known delicacy in Portugal and make for a great souvenir. I also popped into an absolutely gorgeous cathedral and took a peek at some Roman ruins that are currently being excavated right in the middle of the city!
Tip: As fun as it is to shop throughout your trip, I’ve found that you can find most things in the airport duty free shop. If you’re looking for small gifts for friends and family, you can save yourself time and luggage space and do all of your shopping at duty free! They have really good local sections now.
I had lunch at Beher which is pretty close to the Santa Justa Lift. This elevator was designed by a student of the guy who designed the Eiffel Tower and it definitely shows. You can use your Lisboa card to go up to the elevator to the viewing platform but there was a long line and it didn’t really seem that interesting. You can get a great view from street level, and I had just seen some nice views from the castle so I felt like I had what I needed. Lunch was wonderful. The proprietor was very friendly and told me all about the different types of iberico hams. It’s lovely to dine surrounded by massive pig legs in holders. And a glass of local wine doesn’t hurt either.
There’s so much to explore in Lisbon and I recommend wandering the streets, popping into shops and bakeries and cafes, and seeing where the day takes you.
Tip: Lisbon is set on seven hills and they can be somewhat steep. I think the complaints about huffing and puffing up the hills are a bit exaggerated. That said, the sidewalks and streets are all cobblestones. Don’t bring heels–it’s not worth it. Flat shoes only!
Did you know there was a huge earthquake in 1755 that destroyed almost all of Lisbon? I didn’t until I came here. When the earthquake hit, the Carmo Convent was full of people attending mass on All Saints Day and the roof collapsed, destroying everything and everyone. It was never rebuilt but the shell of the building remains and it’s a must see. The convent dates back to the 1300s and it’s quite incredible to walk underneath the arches and through what was once the main church. And of course the admission is covered by the Lisboa card!
In addition to the shell of the Convent, there is also a very old building that serves as a museum and is full of all kinds of incredible things. It’s included with your ticket so stop inside to see lots of curiosities, including mummies, religious artifacts, and fabulous tiles.
There a couple of absolutely gorgeous churches that are very close to Carmo: Igreja de São Roque and Igreja de Santa Catarina. I love popping into beautiful churches in Europe; they are almost always free, usually breathtaking, and full of incredible art. Even if I only spend a few minutes inside, it’s well worth it. Igreja de São Roque has a very plain exterior so there’s even more of a wow factor when you walk inside to gold, gold, gold, “courtesy” of Brazil.
Livraria Bertrand is the oldest bookstore in the world still in operation–it opened in 1732. It’s right in the center of town and was on my walk back to my hotel. It’s definitely worth stopping in. Browsing books is free, after all! I was tickled to see Michelle Obama’s Becoming prominently displayed (in Portuguese of course) as well as an entire section dedicated to the works of Fernando Pessoa, perhaps the most famous Portuguese writer. Pessoa’s favorite cafe is right across the street from the bookstore.
I couldn’t finish my first day in Lisbon without riding the famous Tram 28! Most of Portugal’s city tram cars have been modernized, but the 28 line still uses the classic yellow tram cars dating back to 1914. Tram 28 is a big tourist attraction but it is definitely worth going. The screech of metal, sharp turns, and uphill climbs of the hills of Lisbon make for a very fun ride. The tram driver wears a suit and the interior of the car is all polished wood. Best of all, the entire tram system is free with the Lisboa card, so this is no brainer!
Tram 28 can get quite crowded, usually with tourists. I followed many recommendations to board the tram where it starts, at Martim Moniz on the edge of Baixa. Unfortunately, every other tourist read the same advice. I ended up waiting in a pretty long line and had to wait for a few trams to come and fill up with passengers before I could board one, but at least I scored a window seat while many other people had to stand, squeezed in like Portuguese sardines. If you’re traveling solo, I’d recommend trying your luck boarding at any of the other stops around the city, as people do get on and off at various places. I’m not usually too concerned about pickpockets but Tram 28 is the one place I held my bag closely on this trip, as it is well known for being a pickpocketer’s target: packed to the brim with clueless tourists and offering an easy escape!
What a great first day! My dinner that night was a place very close to my hotel that was fine but not amazing so I won’t give it space here.
Day 2: Beautiful Belem
Belem is a must-do day trip from Lisbon. Technically it is still in Lisbon but it really doesn’t feel like it. Public transportation in Lisbon is incredibly easy and with the Lisboa card it’s a no brainer. I walked about ten minutes to the train stop to catch the tram to Belem. It was meant to be a 30 minute direct trip, but about halfway there, the tram driver stopped and decided he was on break and told everyone to get off and take the bus instead. There was no bus, but we all waited at the bus stop for a few minutes and lo and behold a bus came along. Sometimes you just have to take things in a stride.
The bus to Belem was also a bit of an adventure because some of the streets were blocked off for an unknown reason, so the bus driver had to go on some side streets that turned out not to be wide enough for a bus. What an adventure! Then we all learned why the streets were blocked off when we saw a giant military horse parade go right by our bus. Dozens and dozens of horses trotting by with their riders (and them) in full regalia!
When we finally arrived in Belem, I hopped off one stop before the famous Belem Tower to spend some time in the Maritime Museum. This wasn’t originally on my to do list (well, I had it on there as a back up in case it rained) but what do you know, it was raining so I decided to hide out indoors. It was discounted with the Lisboa card and it turned out to be quite spectacular. I’m so glad I went and would recommend it to anyone.
Tip: Plan some bad weather backup ideas in advance of your trip. I like identifying museums that would be fun to go but aren’t must sees. That way if it does rain, I’m not stuck doing nothing in a cafe wishing I had thought of something earlier.
The skies cleared and it was time to check out Torre de Belém (the Belem Tower). It’s a gorgeous fortress from the fifteenth century that guarded the entrance to Libson’s harbor and you can wander about for however long you want; I spent about 30 minutes there. It’s free with the Lisboa card. You can climb up a tiny, steep, claustrophobic staircase to the very top of the tower but I said no thank youuuu to that.
On my walk to Belem Tower, I stopped by a little cafe for lunch. I knew it was a good spot because there were construction workers eating there and there was no one who looked like me. I ordered bacalhau al bras, a famous Portuguese dish with salt cod, eggs, and potatoes (sooooo good) and apparently it came with a glass of red wine. That glass was the fullest pour I’ve ever seen in my life. What a great meal! Friendly service and a good price–can’t beat it.
Just past the Belem Tower is the Monument to Overseas Combatants. It’s very beautiful and really makes a statement–about 10,000 names of Portuguese soldiers who died in overseas wars engraved in the stone. The massive monument has an eternal flame, armed guards, and a tiny underground chapel. There were hardly any visitors there and it’s definitely worth walking the extra five minutes to see.
Walk about fifteen minutes in the other direction from Belem Tower and you’ll reach the Monument to the Discoveries. This is a very cool sculpture that honors the famous Portuguese explorers. You can go inside and alllll the way up to the top but I’m not a fan of steep staircases or tiny elevators for that matter so I enjoyed it from the outside.
The Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Monastery of Jerome) is another fifteen minute walk from the Monument to the Discoveries. There is an underground tunnel that you take to cross the big main street separating you from the monastery. Don’t be an idiot like I was and walk many blocks along the water waiting for a crosswalk. There isn’t one! Take the underground tunnel! If only I had known it was there all along!
The Monastery of Jerome is breathtakingly beautiful. It’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. Just go. It’s free with the Lisboa card. Because I was there in the off season I had many vistas and hallways to myself. I can only imagine how much this place must be overrun with influencers in peak season. I did spot a few people taking their overly posed pics. One guy offered to take my picture which was very nice, and then when I offered to take his pic in return, he had me take like thirty different shots. After a while I was thinking dude you should probably just get a tripod so I said “ok then, byyyyeee!”
Right next to the monastery is a stunning cathedral and you can see Vasco da Gama’s tomb. Cool! I love a good cathedral and never get sick of them. I know some people get churched out when traveling but not me!
One block over from the monastery is Pasteis de Belem, a bakery that has been in business since 1837. They are famed for creating the pastel de nata! The monks in the nearby monastery used egg whites to starch the nuns’ habits and a bunch of leftover egg yolks… what better thing to make than a custard tart? This place is just delightful. And it would be a crime to go and only have a pastel de nata so I had to try a few things. When I arrived mid afternoon, there was no line and I was seated immediately. By the time I left, there was a line down the block. I’m not sure if a tour bus dropped people off or what, but yikes, I guess this place fills up!
I took the tram back to Lisbon (no unofficial driver breaks this time) and visited my first miradouro, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, known for its pretty blue and white tilework. Miradouros are viewpoints with beautiful vistas and they are all over Lisbon, which makes sense as it is a city of hills! It’s nice to stop by for a rest, enjoy a snack, listen to music, and get a slice of local life as you see couples canoodling, kids kicking a soccer ball, and curious pups try to finagle treats from tourists. Life is better with a lovely view!
I spent dusk wandering the narrow streets of Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood. There’s no point in having any kind of plan: just wander. This is a real neighborhood, with real life going on at every corner and in every window. The streets are steep. You can hear conversations and the clattering of pans from kitchens, snippets of soccer games on TV, and old men debating whatever it is that old men debate in every country.
Dinner at Santelmo was fantastic. Perhaps the best octopus I’ve ever had? But I always say that.
Day 3: Dare I say Sintra is overrated?
I took the train to Sintra for the day. Everyone told me this was a must do, and based on all of my trip planning, I agreed. This is a beautiful, mountainous area about 40 minutes outside of Lisbon. Many fancy people built their castles here back in the day to relax and cool off during the hot summer months.
Sintra is not included in the Lisboa card, womp womp. A ticket to Pena Palace (the most famous castle) costs 14 euro and also gives you access to the park. The train ticket is only a couple of euro and trains leave often from Rossio Station in downtown Lisbon. Even a dummy like me could figure everything out quite easily.
Once you reach the train station in Sintra, there are lots of people driving little golf cart like vehicles who are vying to drive you up the mountain for a hefty fee. You can also take a bus that drives a circuit around the mountain. I wanted to hike up the mountain but spent a good hour lost in the forest because I took the wrong trail. It was pretty fun because it was daylight, I met other lost travelers from different countries and we all tried to figure out the trail together, the forest scenery was beautiful, and I had allowed plenty of time so I wasn’t in danger of missing my ticket time for the palace. Eventually I gave up and took the bus, which stops at each castle.
Pena Palace was beautiful but I’m not sure if it was worth the commute. This was definitely the most crowded, touristy place I went to in Portugal. Even with a confirmed ticket for a 2 pm entry to the palace, I queued up behind dozens of people well in advance of my entry time. The Instagram influencers were out of control with their poses. The interior of the palace was lovely but we were shuffled from room to room like cattle and it was quite crowded. If this was off season, then what is peak season like??
Here is a slideshow with more photos from Pena Palace:
I could have visited other castles after that but decided to skip them and take the train back to Lisbon. The direct train to Rossio station was coming about 40 minutes after I arrived at the Sintra station and I didn’t feel like waiting, so I decided to be adventurous and take a train that was just about to leave. It arrived at a different station in Lisbon so I took a bus from there back to my hotel. Public transportation is so easy and Google tells you exactly what bus or tram to take! It’s also all free with the Lisboa card! Taking the bus took me probably the same amount of time as if I had just waited for the Rossio train back in Sintra, but this way I got to see a slice of local life as we drove through non touristy areas. I enjoyed seeing more of Lisbon and more day to day interactions among people.
Back in Lisbon, I spent a couple of hours at a wine bar I found in the barrio district just by wandering around. I enjoyed learning about Portuguese wine regions from the friendly waiter and ate my face off in cheese and pate.
Day 4: Day trip to Obidos, Nazare, and Porto
A great way to get outside of the city and see lots of other places is to go on a small group tour. You don’t have to worry about driving or directions, you can learn a lot from your guide, and you can meet fellow travelers. I booked a day trip to Porto with a couple of other stops on the way via Airbnb Experiences. I’m not really a tour person, but for one day out of a week long trip, it solves a lot of problems and gives you a lot of bang for your buck.
There were about ten people on my tour, a mix of couples, friends, and other solo travelers. Most were American. One couple from Michigan insisted I was famous and then assumed I was hiding my famous identity when I insisted that I wasn’t.
Obidos is a medieval village that is just magical. There’s even a Roman aqueduct just outside! So picturesque. Our stop here was only for about 45 minutes, but it was plenty of time to stroll through the quiet streets, pop into some churches, and admire the white walls and striking tiles.
Here is a slideshow with more photos from Obidos:
Nazare is a coastal town known for having some of the highest waves in the world. At one point, the world record for the highest wave ever surfed was recorded at Nazare. November was just at the very beginning of the surf season so we didn’t see the insane waves that are in the crazy YouTube videos. Here is a great example of Nazare’s waves at their largest:
The monster wave season is January and February. Nazare also has a beautiful cathedral and we drove by a bullfighting ring on our way to the beach. Local women sell roasted nuts wearing their traditional outfits of many layered skirts.
Porto is where port is from! It was raining when we arrived but that was just fine because it was lunchtime. A friend from the tour and I had francesinha, a traditional Porto dish that our guide recommended. It is kind of like a massive grilled cheese sandwich filled with meats and smothered in a tomato sauce and fries: perhaps the world’s best hangover meal? And of course I had to try their patel de nata afterwards. Our guide then took the group on a walking tour of Porto, which was a really nice way to see all kinds of sites in just a couple of hours. I wont’ tell you what to see and do in Porto because you can google that on your own, but he showed us what might be the world’s coolest McDonald’s, a bookstore with a line a mile long because it has a Harry Potter connection, and a statue of a philandering writer. And of course, we saw all of the port distilleries along the river. I didn’t realize that most of the port producers are British–when the Brits were at war with France, they needed to get their wine from somewhere else, but the wine from Portugal would go bad on the journey to England, so they fortified it to better survive the trip and voila! My guide confirmed for me that there was no point in buying port in Porto because I could find everything in the airport store. Woo hoo! We concluded our walking tour by crossing the bridge over the river.
I’m really glad I went on the tour. The drive to Porto is 3 hours long and getting there by train is more complicated and expensive than you might believe.
That evening, I treated myself to dinner at a fado house. Fado is a traditional form of Portuguese music and it is hauntingly beautiful. It is typically a soloist (male or female) with two guitars as accompaniment. I went to Casa de Fado and I’m so glad I did. The performers were phenomenal and the food was excellent and much more elevated than what I was expecting from a “dinner and a show” kind of place. This restaurant was pricier than some of the other fado options in Lisbon but I think very worth it.
Day 5: Tiles and Tipples
Pink street is a block designed for Instagram influencer pics and pops up on many “things to do in Lisbon” lists. You definitely don’t need to make a special trip to see it as it is pretty dull and somewhat dingy, but it’s probably close by other things you’re visiting so you might as well stop by and see a street that is painted… pink.
The National Tile Museum is absolutely gorgeous and I highly recommend going. It might sound super boring but it isn’t! It’s a very easy bus ride from downtown Lisbon and it’s full of the most incredible art. I think it’s one of the very best places to go in Lisbon. In addition to the gorgeous historic tiles and jaw dropping golden church inside, there is also a very cool exhibit of modern pottery work and a lovely cafe with a garden to rest and relax in.
Here is a slideshow with more photos from the National Tile Museum:
Ginjinha is a sour cherry liquor (that is still pretty sweet) that is local to Portugal. Be sure to check out Ginginha do Carmo, a tiny standing room only bar offering shots of ginjinha and other spirits. It’s just a stone’s throw of the Rossio railway station at the base of a flight of steps. I walked by this spot several times before finally having the time to go in, and I’m so glad I did! Ginjinha is served in a tiny chocolate cup and you get to eat the cup after drinking the liquor.
I happened to be in Lisbon in mid November so the Christmas market was just getting set up. It was so fun to see the little stalls selling Christmasy items and mulled wine when it was still pretty temperate outside!
Time Out Market is an indoor food hall created by the same Time Out of magazine fame. They gather up the very best of food and drink in a particular city and put it all under one roof. There are more than 20 restaurants and several bars, with communal seating along long tables, first come first serve. There may be lines for some of the stalls but they move pretty quickly. Some very famous high end chefs have stalls here, so it’s a nice way to be able to try their food without booking a very expensive reservation at their “real” restaurants.
I had dinner and drinks with Bertrand, a friend of mine who I knew from Brussels but now lives in Lisbon. Make sure you’re aware of who you might know before traveling! Meeting up with Bertrand was an unexpected delight and we had so much fun we decided to spend my next and final night together as well. Bertrand speaks Portuguese, among many other languages, so it was very nice to hang out at some neighborhood spots in the city and get a taste of local life while catching up with a friend.
Day 6: Decadent Dinner and Drag Queens
My last day in Lisbon was pretty drizzly and because I hadn’t packed an appropriate outfit for a nice dinner and a fabulous drag show, I spent a lot of the day popping in and out of shops.
For lunch, I stopped at Café Beira Gare, which is a tiny but well known restaurant right next to Rossio Train Station. Walking in, you already feel like a local. The key move is to eat at the counter standing up alongside the other locals. Order a bifana, which is a pork sandwich made to order by a nice old man in a suit. It usually comes with a small beer. There’s mustard on the counter so I took that as a sign. This was a hugely filling, delicious lunch and very affordable.
Dinner was at the opposite end of the spectrum. Bertrand and I headed to Mini Bar by Jose Avillez, which is a gorgeous restaurant hidden in the back of another restaurant. Their tasting menu did not disappoint! It’s not outrageously expensive but definitely more a splurge than the other options in this post.
The drag show we saw was fantastic. It was in a tiny bar in a residential area and had much more of a thrown together, amateur feel to it–and I say that as a compliment! I remember asking the waiter for an old fashioned and he gave me a blank stare. It was caipirinha or nothing. Unlike in America, drag performers in Europe don’t expect tips throughout the show. I guess our differences in tipping culture extend to this art form as well!
Food: I had so many wonderful meals in Lisbon. These are some of the restaurants I researched but just didn’t have time to get to
- Zé da Mouraria: A restaurant famous for its roasted cod.
- Nicolau Lisboa: https://www.ilovenicolau.com/en/
- Taberna da Rua das Flores: by day, a simple tavern serving traditional dishes, with a great meia-desfeita de bacalhau. But by night, it is a chef’s laboratory, mixing influences from around the world.
- Versailles: With decorated ceilings, art nouveau mirrors and crystal lamps, Versailles is one of the most beautiful bakeries in Lisbon. This 1922 gem has a huge selection of cakes, meringues and pastries.
- O Trevo: a popular tasca on Luis de Camões Square in Chiado. The late Anthony Bourdain famously ate there when he filmed No Reservations in 2011.
- Gin Lovers Bar & Restaurant: Located inside Embaixada, a unique shopping gallery residing in a 19th century Arabian palace in the trendy Principe Real neighborhood. It consists of over a dozen boutiques featuring shoes, fashion, furniture, jewelry and other products made by Portuguese designers.
- Cantina das Freiras: A little hard to find: when you’re at the street, look for the door with the “1” number at the top. Climb the stairs to the top till you see a white door to the left (usually closed). Go through the door and you’re here. Everything is in Portuguese but there’s usually a line and you just have to follow the person in front of you.
- A Provinciana: A budget-friendly menu: This family-run restaurant is a hidden gem in an area full of tourist traps. Américo and his daughter manage the front-of-house service, while mom Judite is in charge of the kitchen. Every day, Judite cooks a classic Portuguese dish.
- Tasco do Chico: Dark, cozy & traditional bar with regular live fado singers, plus rustic Portuguese bar dishes. Anthony Bourdain
- https://theculturetrip.com/europe/portugal/articles/why-are-petiscos-the-perfect-meal-in-portugal/
- https://theculturetrip.com/europe/portugal/lisbon/articles/11-traditional-lisbon-dishes-you-need-to-try/
- https://devourtours.com/blog/cheap-eats-lisbon/?cnt=US
- https://www.2foodtrippers.com/what-to-eat-in-lisbon/
Things I researched but didn’t have time to do:
Museu Colecao Berardo — Modern art museum. Close to Tower of Belem. Good for rain. 5 euro. 30% off with Lisboa card.
Fado Museum — Learn about the rich history of Portuguese folk music.
The Palácio dos Marqueses da Fronteira — built in 1640 and is still inhabited today. Visitors can take a guided tour to see the gorgeous rooms covered in traditional tilework and oil paintings. While the palace is certainly worth touring, you won’t want to miss the formal gardens outside. 13 euro for house and garden (not on Lisboa Card).
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